1/6 Scale TTL bodied Cool Girl

Hitomi as race queen
A while ago I ran into some authentic looking Japanese SuperGT Race Queen costume sets.
At first I dressed up Kazumi in this costume, but the costume did not fit her CG v2 body well, so I decided to turn a TTL body (a Large Bust version, as the costumes top was too wide for the regular CG v2 bust) into a Race Queen and find an appropriate head sculpt.

TTL makes some beautiful head sculpts with fine details, I got this particular head as a loose item from eBay.
As the eyes on this head are particularly beautiful, I decided to name her Hitomi.

After I performed a crotch mod on this body the waist joint broke, so I had to perform some surgery to repair it.

I reduced the size of the bulges on the insides of the elbows to keep the bulges from showing through the sleeves.

During the 1994 season of the Japanese GT Championship, the FK/Massimo Team ran an RX-7 FC in GT2 class (nr.12), so Race Queen Hitomi forms a nice link between my collection of Girls and my RX-7 collection.
SuperGT Race Queen Hitomi, close up

ID picture




NameHitomi  瞳 
Member SinceFeb 27th 2012
bodyTTL L2.0A (Large Bust)
headTTL 68006B
remarks modified crotch area
repaired broken waist joint
trimmed elbow bulges

Trimming TTL elbow bulges

TTL L2.0 bodies come with elbow joints that form ugly bulges on the lower arms.
Fortunately these bulges can be trimmed down without causing harm to the joints.
I removed the arms from the body to reduce the amount of stress put on the shoulder joints as these can wear out rather fast.

TTL arms After marking the protruding parts of the elbow joint with pencil, I disassembled one arm to make sure I wasn't about to remove too much material (i.e. break the loop of the joint).
I also made a pencil mark on the loop of the joint, indicating what to remove to match the trimmed outer parts in the fully stretched position.

Note: If you sand down the bulges no further than shown on the picture below then there is no need to disassemble the elbows.

I used a file to sand down the loop. After that I fitted the halves of the lower part of the joint, wrapped some masking tape around the parts of the peg to hold the parts together and sanded own the edges to match the sanded down loop.
TTL elbow joint Here are the parts of the elbow joint after sanding down the loop and the edges of the lower parts.
TTL elbow joint An easy way to make the elbow joint more stiff is to make a few deep scratches along the surface of the peg, this will create some small ridges that help to increase the overall diameter op the peg.

The ridges will wear down over time (but so do the ridges TTL uses for the shoulder joints and for keeping the various parts of the limbs together).
Should the elbow joint turn floppy again, just take the joint apart and make some more scratches, or wrap some fine thread around the peg.
TTL arms One elbow bulge sanded down (the top one), one more to go.
Note that I did not sand the bulge completely flush with the recess in the arm as that would remove too much material from the loop of the joint.

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